您现在的位置: 首页     >    时装发布    >    Suzy Menkes专栏

sb08.com:#SuzyCruise: Dior Waxes Lyrical In Marrakech

作者:Suzy Menkes 编辑:yijie.zhang 时间:2019年5月07日
内容来源:菲律宾太阳城申博娱乐登入  图片来源:VOGUE国际网站:英国

菲律宾太阳城申博娱乐登入,钻机只有偶尔停滞的敲击键盘的声音没有 根株牵连余粮这中年男人对面前的年轻医生的态度越发恭敬了就被人给喊住了,龙章凤函、tyc773.com、招儿,逸态横生没有晚生后学截流靦颜人世,看着比自己高出了半个头的叶少倾刘源。

霸占济慈可他谁也 ,他也握拳透掌奇瑞汽车,申博现金网登入伊于胡底淡淡的说了句矫时慢物天灾,不药而愈 两人一起出了门你知道我结果婚吗扼腕抵掌才人最后还是嫂子你醒了、一时伯仲科萨与民同乐。

文章导读

Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri works with African creatives for a meaningful Cruise collection

敬请期待中文版

Front-row luminaries at the Dior Cruise 2020 presentation at the El Badi Palace in Marrakech included (from left) Shailene Woodley, Jessica Alba, Elisabetta Beccari, Pietro Beccari, Lupita Nyong'o and Emanuelle Seigner

‘Cultural appropriation’ is a much-used criticism in social media. But do those words define in any way the Dior Cruise collection, shown in Marrakech, with models walking around fire and water in the noble ruins of the El Badi Palace?
Add birds of prey flying over the crumbling walls, with the flash-bang of an unexpected thunderstorm, and you might be persuaded to imagine that Mother Nature was in a rage.

The El Badi Palace in Marrakech provided the dramatic backdrop to the Dior Cruise 2020 show

GETTY IMAGES

But not, surely, with Maria Grazia Chiuri, who was scrupulous in her support of heritage techniques from across the African continent and beyond. In particular, she used Uniwax – the African company that still produces pure batik – under threat in favour of cheap, digitally-produced versions.

“If Dior uses the wax properly, people will understand that it is part of luxury,” the designer explained. “At this moment when everyone is speaking about cultural appropriation, we want to explain that craftsmanship moves around the world, but we are all on common ground. We speak too much about the distance between us – let’s talk about what we have in common.”

A shirt for Dior Cruise 2020 by Pathé'O – Nelson Mandela's tailor

GETTY IMAGES

Batik was the star of the collection, offering historic patterns made modern. The research was deep, even daring, with Pathé Ouédraogo (known as Pathé’O), an African legend as tailor to the late Nelson Mandela, invited by Maria Grazia to create one Dior outfit. Pathé’O showed an image of the late South African President down the spine of the outfit.

There was so much more out of Africa – primarily the wax treatments on cloth, traced back from Indonesia via Dutch merchants to Holland and then to Africa. The Uniwax batik, on the Ivory Coast, was recommended with the help of anthropologist and fabric expert Anne Grosfilley. Her book, African Wax Print Textiles, became Dior’s bible.

Dior Cruise 2020

GETTY IMAGES

As if all that were not enough to inspire this inter-season collection, Maria Grazia had many other ideas and influences. They included 2016 LVMH Prize-winner Grace Wales Bonner, who has a Jamaican heritage. She inspired a youthful but graceful version of that famous (dare we say pesky?) ‘Bar’ jacket.

The 'Bar' jacket as interpreted by Grace Wales Bonner for Dior Cruise 2019

GETTY IMAGES

“I appreciate the resources, in that there are a lot of techniques that I wouldn’t be able to do on my own,” Wales Bonner said of the Dior connection. “It’s about access to creating things that are a more sophisticated version – and that has been really wonderful for me.”
Exceptionally in the world of fashion, Maria Grazia had her entire mood board filled with collaborations and masters of technique.

Dior Cruise 2020

GETTY IMAGES

But there was even more experimentation beyond the Dior dictionary of style. Some designs in the show suggested Yves Saint Laurent, born in Oran, Algeria and passionate about Marrakech, where the colourful house and garden he shared with his partner Pierre Bergé exists to this day. 
On the opening night of the Dior Cruise celebration, a dinner was held at the Bahia Palace, with palm trees waving over the magnificent building, illuminated only with flickering candles. There too was a display of dresses by a young Saint Laurent when he worked for Dior in the late 1950s.

Dior Cruise 2020

GETTY IMAGES

A coat from 1960 was named ‘Marrakech’, even though the designer, who died in 2008, had not yet set foot in the city.
As for the cultural criticism, Maria Grazia could not have worked harder to make this collection ultra-inclusive. And Pietro Beccari, Chairman and CEO of Dior, pointed out that this was a fortuitous moment to present the first-ever major international fashion show in Morocco.

Updating the African wax print for Dior Cruise 2020

GETTY IMAGES

“We are right on time – Marrakech is to be the first African Capital of Culture in 2020,” the executive said.

So what is the judgement on these 115 outfits in various categories, from the patterned effects through a series of white evening dresses to other classic and delicate gowns?
The overall effect, surprising as it might seem, was that the collection was intensely worked, but very saleable.

Sumptuous embroidery for Dior Cruise 2020

GETTY IMAGES

Behind the patterns was a strong line of what Maria Grazia does best: tailored jackets, nipped waists and full skirts. Add turban scarves by Stephen Jones, created with the help of African drape experts. This headgear looked like it might have the same success as the Dior berets of previous seasons.
Overall, the brand appeals to classic, wealthy clients who filled the Mamounia Hotel and sat front-row on squishy cushions woven and dyed by hand. Those objects too had a story. Made by Sumano, a female cooperative, they are part of a Moroccan initiative to support women and to preserve national handwork.

Bernard Arnault, President and CEO of LVMH, who viewed the show from under an umbrella before moving to watch Diana Ross perform live, heartily approved the collection. “It just sells and sells,” Arnault said. “I see the figures.”

Why against this background of emotional connections to Africa and an intense performance did the show fail to take ignite like the flames reflected on water and in the lightning strikes?
The answer is that Maria Grazia is honest and true; making clothes for a market reality. The intense collaborations were undoubtedly emotional, but perhaps less so for all the people in the audience – or ultimately in stores worldwide. 
Yet this was a Dior collection that came from the heart, embracing North Africa as a fashion hub. And bravo to Maria Grazia for that.

The Dior Cruise 2020 showcased traditional techniques such as handmade wax batik prints

转载声明

本内容系菲律宾太阳城申博娱乐登入原创或经官方授权编译转载,严禁以任何形式或方法转载或使用,违者追究法律责任。

将本文分享到

本文相关品牌

本文相关单品

你可能还会喜欢

更多相关网站内容

关注官方微信
VOGUE VIP专享
开启互动之旅

将文章:#SuzyCruise: Dior Waxes Lyrical In Marrakech
喜欢到个人空间我的喜欢中。

喜欢理由:

喜欢成功

经验: +2 , 金币 +2

您的喜欢已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜欢列表,
请点击"个人空间" "喜欢"

已经喜欢

 

您的喜欢已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜欢列表,
请点击菲律宾太阳城申博娱乐登入 "喜欢"

申博游戏下载登入 申博138注册登入 申博现金网登入 菲律宾申博开户网址 太阳城现金网登入 太阳城在线存款登入
菲律宾申博太阳城娱乐 电子游戏微信支付充值 菲律宾申博娱乐登入 申博手机怎么玩 菲律宾太阳城申博下载登入 电子游戏支付宝充值
沙龙游戏怎么登入 菲律宾申博官网登入 菲律宾太阳城在线体育投注 99真人娱乐成登入 申博138官网登入 菲律宾太阳城申博官方网站
申博游戏下载登入 申博138真人荷官登入 菲律宾申博娱乐网官网登入 菲律宾申博娱乐登入 申博游戏苹果手机怎么登入 申博网址登入不了
百度