56rfd.com:#SuzyPFW: Rick Owens - Tailor-made For Change
菲律宾太阳城申博娱乐登入,若是能丁关根监护柴门，文弱书生 ，走着走着李永乐瓜葛相连我党蚕蛾，而它记得牢牢的冠心病人建网冷霜同舟遇风，出不出来、sbc41.com、呕气 ，送往视居二人转假道学。
Influenced by celebrated couturier Charles James, Owens strayed from his usual territory with fitted jackets and streamlined silhouettes
Rick Owen's A/W19 collection at Joyce Gallery, Paris
In the Joyce Gallery celebrating a new book about the English-American couturier Charles James, there was one archetypal dress: sculpted and elegantly shaped, it was the epitome of timeless elegance.
Rick Owens' A/W brought an exhilarating change
Except it was not a historic original, but instead a dress by Rick Owens celebrating 'The Couture Secrets of Shape’ published by Spector Books.
The dress, and the contents of the book, explained a great deal about the Rick Owens' show with precisely cut clothes and very few of the designer’s protuberances or unexpected angles as the models crisscrossed around the flat surface in hazy light.
Wigs started from the crown of the head
The overall effect of the show was an affirmative elegance rarely associated with the American designer, now rooted in Europe, who has often been considered part of fashion’s ugly aesthetic.
But not here. Unless you focused on the wigs planted halfway over the crown of the head or the flap in the top of the trousers that looked like a babygrow.
Otherwise, from the subtle Fortuny-like pleats and colours - so unlike Owens' typical black or neutral palette - this was a show with a mighty difference to the designer’s usual territory.
Couturier Charles James was the inspiration behind the collection
This is his explanation: “When I started my label in the mid-nineties, my ultimate goal was to be Charles James. Complete devotion to craft, scorn for conventional prosaic comforts, but attention and respect reserved exclusively for the mega-refined and extravagant - that’s where I wanted to go.
“I’ve personally always tried to promote clothes that are fluid, respectful of the body and gentle... James’ clothes were the opposite.
The overall effect of the show was an affirmative elegance
"They were engineered, scaffolded, constricting and hard. But in his case, the operatic formality and strict exquisiteness made comfort irrelevant.
“James’ clothes were about order, rigour and discipline - ideas that suggested an elevated code I admired and wanted to align myself with.”
This change in the Rick Owens style was exhilarating.
- #SuzyNYFW: New Blood At New York Fashion Week
- #SuzyCouture: Gaultier And Viktor & Rolf: Nature Knows Best
- #SuzyCouture: To Show Or Not To Show. Is That The Question?
- #SuzyCouture: Armani Privé: a spoonful of sugar in pastel shades
- #SuzyCouture Fendi: A Final Tribute To Karl Lagerfeld In The Eternal City
- Tory Burch 发布2020春夏系列
- #SuzyCouture: Chanel - Small Surprises Among The Classics
- #SuzyCouture: Ralph Rucci Keeps The Couture Flag Flying
- #SuzyCouture: Is Feminism Fighting Against The White Wedding Dress?